출처: http://www.bbc.com/news/business-30451115
15 December 2014 Last updated at 00:01
South Korea's craft beer start-ups battle big brewers 한국의 수제맥주와 대규모 양조회사들 전쟁 시작
It's Friday night in Seoul's hip Kyungridan district and young drinkers are packing themselves into a labyrinth of pubs specialising in craft beer hoping to enjoy the robust flavours of stouts, ales, lagers, and IPAs.
Considering that all of South Korea was, at least in beer terms, something of a barren landscape less than a decade ago it's a remarkable scene. 맥주 분야에서, 한국은 10년전까지만해도 불모지나 다름 없었다는 사실을 고려하면, 지금은 경이롭다고 할 수 있다.
Then the market was over-run with offerings from South Korea's two massive industrial brewers; Hite-Jinro and Oriental Brewers. 한국의 맥주시장은 하이트 진로와 OB(Oriental Brewers 동양식 양조)라는 거대한 양조회사들이 내놓은 맥주로 인해 과열상태였다.
The rise of craft brewing in Seoul is something of a David and Goliath story, with a passionate handful of craft entrepreneurs overturning decades of beer boredom by tapping into pent up consumer demand and thawing South Korean public policy on how beer is regulated. 맥주규제에 관한 한국정부의 정책을 융해하(헐어버리고) 동시에 억눌려왔던 소비자들의 요구에 부합함으로써, 수십년 동안 답답한 맥주를 뒤엎어 버리려는 마음을 먹은 열정적인 소수의 수제맥주 사업가들 때문에, 이제 서울에 수제(자가)양조가 등장한 것은 마치 다윗과 골리앗의 싸움과 같다고 볼 수 있다.
A "tasting platter" of seven craft beers for those who can't decide at the Craftworks chain of "taphouses"
Dan Vroon and Chul Park met each other five years ago, when they were both selling craft beer for boat tours and other events. 단 부룬과 박철은 5년 전 보트 투어와 기타 이벤트를 위해 수제 맥주를 팔던 때 만났다.
They bonded over beer. 그들은 맥주 때문에 끈끈한 사이가 되었다.
"Chul initially brought in the first craft beer into Korea from my hometown, Badminton Alberta, Canada," Dan Vroon recalls. "That's what sort of inspired us to create more and better beers." "박철은 내 고향 카나다의 밷민톤 알벨타에서 처음으로 한국에 수제 맥주를 들여왔어요."라고 단 브룬은 회상한다. "그것이 우리가 더 많이 그리고 더 좋은 (수제) 맥주를 만들라는 영감을 주었지요."
Dan Vroon owns and runs Craftworks which opened in 2010 and has three "tap houses" operating in the country. 단 브룬은 2010년에 오픈한 수제맥주 작업장을 소유 운영하고 있으며 지방에는 3개의 "생맥주집"이 있다.
His own brand of beer is brewed at Chul Park's Ka-Brew contract brewery which makes different recipes for several of the new craft beer brands. 박철은 자신만의 브랜드로 여러 종류의 새로운 스타일의 수제맥주 브랜드를 자신의 양조장에서 만든다.
"We started with a single location and were moving roughly 50 kegs (5,147 pints) a week, " Dan Vroon tells the BBC. "우리는 한 곳에서 시작해 일주일에 대략 50 통을 취급했지요."라고 단 브룬은 비비시에 말한다.
"We are now probably doing 300 kegs a week, and building a state of the art brewery, the likes of which has not been seen in Asia yet," he says.
"The Booth," opened its doors in May of 2013 and is packed on a Friday evening.
Pub policy
As recently as three years ago, South Korea prohibited beer sales by any player incapable of putting out at least a million litres a year.
However, requirements for entering the beer making and distribution market have been lowered dramatically since.
Daniel Tudor, former Seoul Correspondent for The Economist magazine and co-owner of Kyungridan pub "The Booth," permits himself a small amount of credit for South Korea's change of tack on beer legislation.
His 2010 article "Fiery food, boring beer" started what he describes as a "media storm" in favour of loosening brewing controls.
Rising affluence and global awareness among Koreans were also important factors.
"I think there are more Koreans who have spent a significant length of time abroad, so they [are]expecting something better now." he says.
30 beers are on tap at "Reilly's Taphouse," started by internationally certified beer expert Troy Zitzelsberger.
Craft beer pubs do not survive by good brewing alone, says Troy Zitzelsberger, co-founder of Reilly's Taphouse in Seoul.
He says success is also a process of teaching customers. "I oversee a homebrew club I started here a couple of years ago, called Seoul Brew Club and as of today we have 1,512 members," he says.
As one of only two cicerones (internationally certified brewmasters) operating in South Korea, Zitzelsberger says he personally oversees the contract brewing of two of the 30 beers he offers on tap.
Fruity "Jeju IPA" hits lighter notes of sour citrus, while "Seoul Cream Stout" appeals to palates that appreciate darker hints of coffee and black bread.
Rising demand for international imports has led o the opening of specialty beer "bottle shops" in Seoul.Even though the beers are taking brewing back to its pre-industrial routes the way the trend has grown is entirely modern.
"Blogging is key here," he says. "You just get some good blogging with good products and talk to the right people and anything can happen."
Copy craft
Even with the success of expat craft brewers in Korea, the market remains miniscule, less than 1% of the overall beer market, including imports.
Domestic brewers, aware of the upside potential, are increasingly playing to craft sensibilities, rolling out brands like "Queen's Ale" and the Germanic-sounding "Kloud".
Top craft brewers in Seoul predict the market is likely to follow a similar famine-to-glut pattern as upscale coffee; these days, it's nearly impossible to walk 100 metres without brushing by a cafe franchise.
At that point, brewers agree, the novelty of the craft beer genre will subside and consumers will focus exclusively on the quality of the product.
"A wise man once said, an honest beer makes its own friends," says Dan Vroon of Craftworks. "We have been getting a lot of friends lately."
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